Samstag, 9. Mai 2015

Petrohrad again

Finally I found some time to write some lines about my latest experiences in Czech´s bouldering area Petrohrad. Many people might never heared about it, I can only say: I love this beautiful, quiet place in between those middle European forest.

At first some key facts about Petrohrad:

- biggest bouldering area in Czech
- Rock: Sharp and slopy/crimpy granite
- Height: Most boulders end at about 3m, but there are also many highballs to climb
- Difficulty: Fb 2 - Fb 8c
- Around the villages of Petrohrad and Zhile
- 45 minutes drive from capital Prague
- Camping 10 minutes away from Petrohrad
- guide: Petrohrad and surroundings by Petr Resch, Jirka Sika

I had two perfect one day sessions during April: The first we spent in three of the most famous (and best) areas "Pod Hradem", "Brána" and "Vyhlídková Skála" on the other hill side.

In Pod Hradem it was my plan to climb the awsome roof of "Grace Runners" 8B, a crimpy section which leads into the morpho "Tomb Raider" 8A. In the end it only was possible for me to crush "Hrob neznàmého boulderisty" 7C+ in a few tries. At our way to the other areas we stopped at the highlight boulder "Vasek" 7C+, which also went down in a few goes.

At the end of the day we visited an other, for me well known place Vyhlidkova skala, with many classic boulders within the beautiful forest of Petrohrad. On the other side of the hill you will also find some rock, as well big Highballs as some crazy low balls like "Zelena Lady" 8A. Freaky hooks will lead you into a slopy mantle. Also this bouler went down quite good, so I decided to come back a few days later to try the extention.

But sometimes you don´t get what you want - 20 °C, by far not the best conditions to try this boulder. Nevertheless I could send off "Elza" 8A, the powerful left exit of "Noodledream", "Magicke Oko" 7C+ and "Jan Kubis" 7C+, in another sector, just above the parking area in a flat and open hillside, really worth a visit.

April Petrohrad session from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Montag, 23. März 2015

Fontainebleau - the heart of bouldering

Fontainebleau - place of origin of the activity, giving me so much: Bouldering. At the first time I got there about four years ago I was quite inspired by those peerless structured sandstone in the middle of those beautiful forest!

I saw many classic boulders, historic lines, with the desire to try and climb them one day! Two weeks ago I finally had this chance, as I spent eight days in the "forest" with my girlfriend, Franzi - her first bouldeing trip. To sum up with one single word: Stunning! Stunning lines, good conditions, by far one of the best accomodations I ever had during a bouldering trip and of course delicious food ;-)
La Balance - Bas Cuvier

After a nine hours drive we arrived on monday evening in "Bois le Roi". A friend of mine showed us a really nice place to stay, 5 minutes from the area "Rocher Canon" and ten minutes from "Bas Cuvier" and "Apremont", called "Gite Kailloux", where we really enjoyed our time!

On tuesday morning unfortunatley we woke up by pattering rain on our window. Looked bad for bouldering during our first day, so we decided to cook a little "holiday - menu" and take a walk around "Bas Cuvier" in the afternoon. Unexpected, a few classics stood dry and I could cimb "L´Aerodynamite" (7B+/C) and "Aerosol" (7B+) in a few tries and also Franzi could do her first moves on sandstone.

Bérézina - Carnage - assis
Next day, next stop in "Petit Bois", a little, shady spot in the really south of Nemours. Really to recommand, climbing during the summer! Last time I already did two beautiful lines "La Baleine" and "Big Jim" there. I could remember a big sloper arete called "Big Dragon" (8A+), well known from the Dosage movies. For me it´s also one the best lines I ever tried, regrettably I couldn´t finish the Problem, so I got a good aim for my next trip!

Next day we planned to spend our time in Paris: Waking up in warm sun shine, it seemed to be a wonderful day. After Louvre, Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower and many other famous destinations, we came back after 11 hours - happy, tired and with many good memories! Rest days are the best days - or  could it even get better?

The next days have also been special and unforgettable for both of us! I was able to send of  many boulders I really wished to climb years ago: "La Balance sans", "Bérézina - Carnage - assis" and maybe the best dyno in a climbers world "Rainbow Rocket" (all 8A), Apotheose (7C+), second go and few other easier but by far not worse than the other "big names", including "Helicoptere" and "Cortomaltese". Franzi could climb here first boulders in the upper fifth grade outdoor and got really close on some sixth, too! So cool!

All those time has been to short to try all great lines in this forest as our last day startet in Font. We had so much fun there and both have to return to finish off our projects!

Last but not least a few impressions in my latest Video - enjoy:

Fontainebleau - a week in paradise from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Pic.: Franzi Lehner

Sonntag, 8. März 2015

Bouldering in spring´s first sunrays

The real tick
Last week I finally passed my last exam for this semester and also the weather forcast showed best conditions for bouldering in perfect sunny weather.

Tomorrow I will be on my way to beautiful Fontainebleau for the first time after about four years! So I spent some time on my transit at home in Weilheim and Kochel, where I could climb some funny limestone boulders, testing the new Red Chili spring/summer collection togehter with my girlfriend.

The first one is named "Jenseits von Methadon" (Fb 8A/V11), quite similar to the Atlantiswall´s giga - classic "Jenseits von Jena". It´s a new left starting version with a massive shouldermove and the "Jenseits von Jena" - exit. Next station "Aldi Power sit" (Fb 8a+/V12), where I missed my ascent close on the very last move.

In the evening we hiked up to one of Kochel´s best bouldering - destinations "Tickwall". A repitition of "The real tick" (Fb 7C/+; V9/10) took me only about 15 minutes. At the same time I was really shocked about the concentration of tickmarks and exaggerated chalked holds - PLEASE clean your boulders before leaving it! It preserves the rock and gives you a better feeling, climbing on your problems!

Psyched for Font! :-)

Jenseits von Methadon

Pic: Franziska Lehner

Sonntag, 15. Februar 2015

The Red Chili Spring Summer collection

I´m proud to pronounce the newest (and best) Red Chili summer and spring collection. This awsome clothing line, with the motto "Indians" contains some pieces also for you. The new collection combines a really great style with perfect material, possible to wear as well for your hardest climbs as in your daily life.

It was a really special experience for me to shoot with this great team in Aldaglar national park, so I want to show you some impressions and apetizers - enjoy! Only a few days left until you can also get your Red Chili clothes in your store:
Bouldering on some of the great limestone blocs

The whole crew having fun

Dienstag, 23. Dezember 2014

Merry Christmas!

Soulmoves Süd
A great climbing - year is nearly over for me, so it´s time to say a big "thank you"  for your interest about my experiences or achievements 2014! I wish you a blessed and merry Christmas and a happy new year year 2015!

At the beginning of this year I wasn´t sure how I will develope because I just came back to climbing after a six weeks break resulting from an injury on my ankle. Now I can only say it was a great year with so much time, bouldering outdoor, a lot of fun, hard fights in my projects and great success which makes me quite psyched to push my limits also next year!

I hate statistics but this one shows the best, how confident I am about my progress over the past years

My personal highlights surely have been my trip to my favourite boulderin area "Meschia" in the italian Monti Sibillini - I really enjoy to watch following little video I built with a lot of nice memories to a great time in "Bella Italia".

A trip to Meschia from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Shooting in Aldaglar national park
Another great station: Fotoshooting for the Red Chili´s spring collection 2015 in Turkey. For me it was like a premiere in shooting, as I never did it before - I will never forget this unique and exhausting time with Stefan Glowacz and all those other people! Stay tuned for the new clothing line around February and two new perfect shoes: "Octan" and Stratos". Thank you "Red Chili" for all the support, I´m glad to have such a great sponsor!

Last time the weather hasn´t meant it good with me, so I only spent a few days bouldering outdoor but it was the perfect chance to take part in the first competition after over 1,5 years - "Soulmoves Süd" in my home town Regensburg where I was able to take the victory back home. It was a great day together with my girlfriend and a lot of other people. Now, like every semster, my exams are getting closer, so less time for climbing in January and February but stay tuned for my planned trips to Fontainebleau and Ticino in March, have a great time bouldering during the winter and some relaxed days this week with your friends and family

Pictures: Soulmoves Süd - Attila Henning, Screenshot, "Shooting in Aldaglar" - Moritz Attenberger

Freitag, 7. November 2014

Jenseits von Gut und Böse, Aeon Fluxx and the perfect preperation for your projects

Aeon Fluxx
In October I took some time to enjoy a little bit of limestone again of my two homeareas, around my place of origin Weilheim and my current domicile Regensburg in eastern Bavaria.

In spring, strong climber Thomas Lindinger established a new problem on the well known fridge in Kochel, starting with "Supercontergan" and the end in "Jenseits von Jena", which I tried very often from spring, unfortunatley with conditions and time against me. So also at the beginning of October, failing on the last hard move for maybe the 30ties time - what a nightmare! At least I was able to finsish the seldom repeated boulder "Aeon Fluxx (Fb 7c+/8a - V10/11), determined to train even harder the next week, to come back stronger.

Jenseits von Gut und Böse
So I spent much time in Regensburg training in the gym, on the campusboard but also in beautiful southern Frankenjura, solving a quite good (and fucking hard) fridge problem around 7C+ and trying some other stuff around in the woods!

This weekend I returned with my girlfriend, feeling stronger, really confident and "surprise surprise" with perfect dry conditions around 7°C. After a huge brunch, typical bavarian salad made out of sausages and the best accompaniment you could get, I was able to send my second Fb 8b (V13) ("Jenseits von Gut und Böse") boulder ever, on my first try! Later I could also repeat a variation to Aeon Fluxx, named "Saw" without the striking sidepull, which checks in around Fb 7c+/8a (V10/11) - so happy and psyched for the winter! Maybe you should also try some typical bavarian breakfast before your projects ;-) See you on the rock!

Pictures: Franzi Lehner

Dienstag, 30. September 2014

Vitalogy sit and other stuff in Austria & Switzerland

Sticking the Crux move of Vitalogy sit
Before university "finally" starts next monday I spent some days in my hometown Weilheim, meeting a lot of friends and of course for another two great days of bouldering in the alps:

Saturday I got up very early to drive in the beautiful Magic Wood to complete some projects left from my latest trip there. Sadly I wasn´t able to complete any of them because I felt really bad on this day and could only send "Intermezzo" (Fb 7C), a very nice lowball but by far not as hard as I had expected to climb on this day - in the evening I checked out Riverbed, maybe the best 8B boulder I have ever tried...hopefully I will be able to send it in future!

On monday after a three hours - drive (so much traffic but no weekend?) my next station was "Zillergrund forest", heart of the perfect Zillervalley...I wasn´t able to complete the whole extention to "Clockwork orange" last time but today I felt a lot stronger than I was able to finally tick "Fucking orange" (Fb 8A) on my third try this day. I didn´t had troubles to do the single moves but to put them all together felt damn hard - a real maxpower endurance problem.

Fucking orange 8A
On the other side of the bloc you can find a overhanging arete called "Vitalogy" which I already climbed last year from the standing start which checks in around 7C...I also tried the sitstart last time but never was able to lift up from the ground. But not today: It felt so much better and after a couple of minutes I figgured out a really good solution for all the moves and felt really confident to complete the whole line. 30 minutes later I stuck the crux move to a small crimp around the corner on the left and also the 7C standing start didn´t stop me to climb this beautiful Fb 8A+ sitstart - problem - HAPPY :)