Montag, 23. März 2015

Fontainebleau - the heart of bouldering

Fontainebleau - place of origin of the activity, giving me so much: Bouldering. At the first time I got there about four years ago I was quite inspired by those peerless structured sandstone in the middle of those beautiful forest!

I saw many classic boulders, historic lines, with the desire to try and climb them one day! Two weeks ago I finally had this chance, as I spent eight days in the "forest" with my girlfriend, Franzi - her first bouldeing trip. To sum up with one single word: Stunning! Stunning lines, good conditions, by far one of the best accomodations I ever had during a bouldering trip and of course delicious food ;-)
La Balance - Bas Cuvier

After a nine hours drive we arrived on monday evening in "Bois le Roi". A friend of mine showed us a really nice place to stay, 5 minutes from the area "Rocher Canon" and ten minutes from "Bas Cuvier" and "Apremont", called "Gite Kailloux", where we really enjoyed our time!

On tuesday morning unfortunatley we woke up by pattering rain on our window. Looked bad for bouldering during our first day, so we decided to cook a little "holiday - menu" and take a walk around "Bas Cuvier" in the afternoon. Unexpected, a few classics stood dry and I could cimb "L´Aerodynamite" (7B+/C) and "Aerosol" (7B+) in a few tries and also Franzi could do her first moves on sandstone.

Bérézina - Carnage - assis
Next day, next stop in "Petit Bois", a little, shady spot in the really south of Nemours. Really to recommand, climbing during the summer! Last time I already did two beautiful lines "La Baleine" and "Big Jim" there. I could remember a big sloper arete called "Big Dragon" (8A+), well known from the Dosage movies. For me it´s also one the best lines I ever tried, regrettably I couldn´t finish the Problem, so I got a good aim for my next trip!

Next day we planned to spend our time in Paris: Waking up in warm sun shine, it seemed to be a wonderful day. After Louvre, Champs Elysees, Eiffel Tower and many other famous destinations, we came back after 11 hours - happy, tired and with many good memories! Rest days are the best days - or  could it even get better?

The next days have also been special and unforgettable for both of us! I was able to send of  many boulders I really wished to climb years ago: "La Balance sans", "Bérézina - Carnage - assis" and maybe the best dyno in a climbers world "Rainbow Rocket" (all 8A), Apotheose (7C+), second go and few other easier but by far not worse than the other "big names", including "Helicoptere" and "Cortomaltese". Franzi could climb here first boulders in the upper fifth grade outdoor and got really close on some sixth, too! So cool!

All those time has been to short to try all great lines in this forest as our last day startet in Font. We had so much fun there and both have to return to finish off our projects!

Last but not least a few impressions in my latest Video - enjoy:

Fontainebleau - a week in paradise from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Pic.: Franzi Lehner

Sonntag, 8. März 2015

Bouldering in spring´s first sunrays

The real tick
Last week I finally passed my last exam for this semester and also the weather forcast showed best conditions for bouldering in perfect sunny weather.

Tomorrow I will be on my way to beautiful Fontainebleau for the first time after about four years! So I spent some time on my transit at home in Weilheim and Kochel, where I could climb some funny limestone boulders, testing the new Red Chili spring/summer collection togehter with my girlfriend.

The first one is named "Jenseits von Methadon" (Fb 8A/V11), quite similar to the Atlantiswall´s giga - classic "Jenseits von Jena". It´s a new left starting version with a massive shouldermove and the "Jenseits von Jena" - exit. Next station "Aldi Power sit" (Fb 8a+/V12), where I missed my ascent close on the very last move.

In the evening we hiked up to one of Kochel´s best bouldering - destinations "Tickwall". A repitition of "The real tick" (Fb 7C/+; V9/10) took me only about 15 minutes. At the same time I was really shocked about the concentration of tickmarks and exaggerated chalked holds - PLEASE clean your boulders before leaving it! It preserves the rock and gives you a better feeling, climbing on your problems!

Psyched for Font! :-)

Jenseits von Methadon

Pic: Franziska Lehner

Sonntag, 15. Februar 2015

The Red Chili Spring Summer collection

I´m proud to pronounce the newest (and best) Red Chili summer and spring collection. This awsome clothing line, with the motto "Indians" contains some pieces also for you. The new collection combines a really great style with perfect material, possible to wear as well for your hardest climbs as in your daily life.

It was a really special experience for me to shoot with this great team in Aldaglar national park, so I want to show you some impressions and apetizers - enjoy! Only a few days left until you can also get your Red Chili clothes in your store:
Bouldering on some of the great limestone blocs

The whole crew having fun

Dienstag, 23. Dezember 2014

Merry Christmas!

Soulmoves Süd
A great climbing - year is nearly over for me, so it´s time to say a big "thank you"  for your interest about my experiences or achievements 2014! I wish you a blessed and merry Christmas and a happy new year year 2015!

At the beginning of this year I wasn´t sure how I will develope because I just came back to climbing after a six weeks break resulting from an injury on my ankle. Now I can only say it was a great year with so much time, bouldering outdoor, a lot of fun, hard fights in my projects and great success which makes me quite psyched to push my limits also next year!

I hate statistics but this one shows the best, how confident I am about my progress over the past years

My personal highlights surely have been my trip to my favourite boulderin area "Meschia" in the italian Monti Sibillini - I really enjoy to watch following little video I built with a lot of nice memories to a great time in "Bella Italia".

A trip to Meschia from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Shooting in Aldaglar national park
Another great station: Fotoshooting for the Red Chili´s spring collection 2015 in Turkey. For me it was like a premiere in shooting, as I never did it before - I will never forget this unique and exhausting time with Stefan Glowacz and all those other people! Stay tuned for the new clothing line around February and two new perfect shoes: "Octan" and Stratos". Thank you "Red Chili" for all the support, I´m glad to have such a great sponsor!

Last time the weather hasn´t meant it good with me, so I only spent a few days bouldering outdoor but it was the perfect chance to take part in the first competition after over 1,5 years - "Soulmoves Süd" in my home town Regensburg where I was able to take the victory back home. It was a great day together with my girlfriend and a lot of other people. Now, like every semster, my exams are getting closer, so less time for climbing in January and February but stay tuned for my planned trips to Fontainebleau and Ticino in March, have a great time bouldering during the winter and some relaxed days this week with your friends and family

Pictures: Soulmoves Süd - Attila Henning, Screenshot, "Shooting in Aldaglar" - Moritz Attenberger

Freitag, 7. November 2014

Jenseits von Gut und Böse, Aeon Fluxx and the perfect preperation for your projects

Aeon Fluxx
In October I took some time to enjoy a little bit of limestone again of my two homeareas, around my place of origin Weilheim and my current domicile Regensburg in eastern Bavaria.

In spring, strong climber Thomas Lindinger established a new problem on the well known fridge in Kochel, starting with "Supercontergan" and the end in "Jenseits von Jena", which I tried very often from spring, unfortunatley with conditions and time against me. So also at the beginning of October, failing on the last hard move for maybe the 30ties time - what a nightmare! At least I was able to finsish the seldom repeated boulder "Aeon Fluxx (Fb 7c+/8a - V10/11), determined to train even harder the next week, to come back stronger.

Jenseits von Gut und Böse
So I spent much time in Regensburg training in the gym, on the campusboard but also in beautiful southern Frankenjura, solving a quite good (and fucking hard) fridge problem around 7C+ and trying some other stuff around in the woods!

This weekend I returned with my girlfriend, feeling stronger, really confident and "surprise surprise" with perfect dry conditions around 7°C. After a huge brunch, typical bavarian salad made out of sausages and the best accompaniment you could get, I was able to send my second Fb 8b (V13) ("Jenseits von Gut und Böse") boulder ever, on my first try! Later I could also repeat a variation to Aeon Fluxx, named "Saw" without the striking sidepull, which checks in around Fb 7c+/8a (V10/11) - so happy and psyched for the winter! Maybe you should also try some typical bavarian breakfast before your projects ;-) See you on the rock!

Pictures: Franzi Lehner

Dienstag, 30. September 2014

Vitalogy sit and other stuff in Austria & Switzerland

Sticking the Crux move of Vitalogy sit
Before university "finally" starts next monday I spent some days in my hometown Weilheim, meeting a lot of friends and of course for another two great days of bouldering in the alps:

Saturday I got up very early to drive in the beautiful Magic Wood to complete some projects left from my latest trip there. Sadly I wasn´t able to complete any of them because I felt really bad on this day and could only send "Intermezzo" (Fb 7C), a very nice lowball but by far not as hard as I had expected to climb on this day - in the evening I checked out Riverbed, maybe the best 8B boulder I have ever tried...hopefully I will be able to send it in future!

On monday after a three hours - drive (so much traffic but no weekend?) my next station was "Zillergrund forest", heart of the perfect Zillervalley...I wasn´t able to complete the whole extention to "Clockwork orange" last time but today I felt a lot stronger than I was able to finally tick "Fucking orange" (Fb 8A) on my third try this day. I didn´t had troubles to do the single moves but to put them all together felt damn hard - a real maxpower endurance problem.

Fucking orange 8A
On the other side of the bloc you can find a overhanging arete called "Vitalogy" which I already climbed last year from the standing start which checks in around 7C...I also tried the sitstart last time but never was able to lift up from the ground. But not today: It felt so much better and after a couple of minutes I figgured out a really good solution for all the moves and felt really confident to complete the whole line. 30 minutes later I stuck the crux move to a small crimp around the corner on the left and also the 7C standing start didn´t stop me to climb this beautiful Fb 8A+ sitstart - problem - HAPPY :)

Samstag, 13. September 2014

Summer time bouldering - Kochel, Magic Wood and Petrohrad

Finally I passed my exams at university! Well dressed with the new Red Chili autmn collection I spent much time on the rock during august and Spetember. My first stop has been near my hometown Weilheim - my home area Kochel. I managed to climb one of my left projects from past spring which is called "Oif & zwoif Affn" (Bavarian for 11 & 12 apes) adding a Fb 7C sit start to a tricky Fb 8A traverse on slopers, crimps and underclings. I already climbed the two single boulders a few months ago but wasn´t able to complete the full line. I also did an old Klem Loscot - classic "Dog eat dog" (Fb 7C/V9), a crimpy traverse starting on the last hold of "Oif & zwoif Affn" - maybe it is possible to combine those two traverses to a one long boulder - the future will show :)

Oif & zwoif Affn (Fb 8A+/V12) - Kochel from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.

Job done, so next stop: PETROHRAD - a small village 45 minutes away from Chzechias capital Prague. I´m really impressed of this beautiful area! The current guide offers you 18 sectors around Petrohrad, mostly in typical conifer and birch forests. The style depends a little bit on the structure of the rock between very slopy and crimpy on big granite "eggs"- so Petrohrad is surely better to visit during autmn and spring.
Ruda armada - Fb 8A

We visited only three areas called Pod Hradem, one of the most famous above a ruine around a hillside in the forest, Vyhildkova skala and Brana, the first one is looking very similar to Pod Hradem the second on the top of a hill between a beautiful birch forest. I have beem there one day in august and one in septmember. At first we climbed some classices like "Placana" (Fb 7B/V7), one of the most beautiful lowballs I have seen so far and Lopatev (Fb 7B+/V8). Starting on the same hold as "Lopatev" you can find one of the most famous 8A - boulders: "Ruda armada" - I was able to complete this slopy boulder on my second day with a static hook beta (the most people prefer the jump bete with the left hand). I can really recommand Petrohrad as a good and cheap alternative to classic areas in Switzerland and Austria.

Last but not least: One week in Magic Wood, where I have been roundabout one year ago after my A - levels at school for the first time. This time the weather sadly wasn´t that good and we had quite humid conditions all over our short trip.
Ruda armada - Fb 8A

Nevertheless it was possible for me to do some classics and other problems, left from last year: "Unendliche Geschichte 2",  "Natural ites" both on the famous Bruno bloc and Fb 8A/V11. "Conan" (Fb 7C+/8A - V10/11), a slopy arete in the first sector starting low in a little roof. And for me the most beautiful boulder of this trip: "Jack is dead", same grade as Conan and a logical extention to the mega classic "Jack the chipper". One problem: You should bring some pads and enough courage to try it, as the landing zone isn´t so confortable. You can enjoy some impressions of those "magic moments" in a little short clip I built (unfortunatley I really have troubles with my computer, so the quality isn´t so good).

Our rest days we spent in Gasthaus Edelweiß, which also offers you a shower for only 3€ (it isn´t possible to have a shower on the campsite). But now enough about me and a short appeal to you: Bouldering is a sport which developes very fast, so we have to care more about our beautiful areas like Magic Wood. There´s a quite good organisation called "Save bouldering" , with a new website. Please read and try to think about those ideas, for a perfect boulering future - oh yes and don´t forget to like it on Facebook ;) Cheers, see you on the rock!
Magic Feelings

Magic moments - six days bouldering in Magic wood from Bechtold Fabian on Vimeo.